Looking for a new way to cut soft face-framing layers? Sam Villa, Co-Founder of Sam Villa and Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken, uses diagonal sections and high elevation in this easy to replicate approach that creates predictable layers with a soft organic edge.
Things to Keep in Mind:
• Use a middle part and diagonal elevated sections so hair moves itself forward. The elevation creates softness and the angle creates the face frame.
• Use a dry cutting shear – the longer arms on the Sam Villa Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear allow for a deeper point cut.
• Create the guide on a diagonal and then fan and point cut. Place thumb in the center of the index finger and push to curl hair around thumb. Stabilize shear and open and close while moving through hair – this keeps it parallel to the hair so just weight is taken out.
• For the next section, go one finger width longer than the guideline to create a soft framing edge. Repeat for each section.
• The over direction point is to the center part; use the spine of the comb to match up.
• When cutting on the opposite side (left), the shear points down instead of up (if right handed), so take the section on the opposite side (left), then move back to the right side and do the cutting there.
“Texture is all visual and feel, there’s no way to cross check it, so don’t go looking for hair to cut, be at peace with the fact that sometimes you will cut more than other times,” says Villa.
Things to Keep in Mind:
• Use a middle part and diagonal elevated sections so hair moves itself forward. The elevation creates softness and the angle creates the face frame.
• Use a dry cutting shear – the longer arms on the Sam Villa Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear allow for a deeper point cut.
• Create the guide on a diagonal and then fan and point cut. Place thumb in the center of the index finger and push to curl hair around thumb. Stabilize shear and open and close while moving through hair – this keeps it parallel to the hair so just weight is taken out.
• For the next section, go one finger width longer than the guideline to create a soft framing edge. Repeat for each section.
• The over direction point is to the center part; use the spine of the comb to match up.
• When cutting on the opposite side (left), the shear points down instead of up (if right handed), so take the section on the opposite side (left), then move back to the right side and do the cutting there.
“Texture is all visual and feel, there’s no way to cross check it, so don’t go looking for hair to cut, be at peace with the fact that sometimes you will cut more than other times,” says Villa.
Photography: Courtesy of Sam Villa